Find the failed part before pulling the pump
A tired pressure switch, a waterlogged tank, or a stuck check valve can look just like a burned motor. We check power, the controls, the tank, and the wellhead before anyone plans a pull.
Water well pump repair and replacement
If the well stopped keeping the house in water, we can help. We’ll look at the pump, the motor, the pipe, and the pressure tank, then repair what’s actually worn out.
Well pumps Serving the Peninsula, the nearby Bay, and Stockton.
Photo: W.carterCC BY-SA 4.0cropped Sounds familiar?
If any of these match, you’re in the right place. If it’s something else, just say so when you call.
- The pump runs and the house still has no water
- Pressure falls off in the middle of a shower, or the pump short-cycles
- The breaker trips when the pump tries to start
- Air sputters from fixtures, or the tank is logged with water
- A sandy or noisy pump that used to be quiet
What a visit looks like
Pull, set, and start submersible pumps
Most private wells we see around the valley and the Peninsula use a submersible pump. We pull it, match a replacement to the well, and set it back with a working check valve and a comfortable pressure setting.
Shallow wells and booster sets
Shallow wells and shared systems sometimes use a jet pump or a booster sitting above ground. When that’s the case, the repair is often quicker than pulling a pump from the well, and we’ll tell you so.
Tanks, switches, and controls
A new pump on a worn-out tank will turn itself on and off until it fails again. Tanks, switches, gauges, and low-pressure cutoffs are part of the same visit.
Pumps and parts in this group
- Submersible well pumps and motors
- Jet pumps on shallow wells
- Drop pipe, cable, and check valves
- Pressure tanks and switches
- Well seals and pitless adapters
- Control boxes and start components
Common questions
Do you drill new wells?
We don’t drill new wells. That’s a different license. We repair and replace the pump and the pressure equipment. If the well itself has a problem, we’ll say so and point you toward a driller.
Can you match the pump that is already in the well?
Usually, yes. If we can read the model, horsepower, and stages — or measure what’s there — we can match it. A bigger pump isn’t always better. It needs to fit the well and the pressure your home or irrigation actually needs.
Why does a well pump short-cycle?
Often it’s a waterlogged pressure tank, a worn bladder, a switch set too tightly, or a check valve letting water fall back down the well. We check those easier parts before blaming the pump.